From Balenciaga to Martin Margeila, angularity, highly structured garments, and block colors were big for Paris Spring/Summer 2013.
Balenciaga capitalized on ruffles, around the hips creating an effect that was at once girly yet composed, with the tight linearity of a fashion illustration. Slit skirts were given a new twist — literally — with the slit spiraling away from the leg, in opulent, bouncy waves of fabric.
Fusing Bauhaus and French luxury, Martin Margeila’ collection collection resembled, to some extent, the work of Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. Garments were often oversized, box or sack shape, curious but wearable.WWD described it as “a bit strange,” but it was also an effective show, with Margeila at his best with more tailored garments, which were nonetheless fluid and breezy while remaining structured and holding tight to the body in places (such as around the shoulders).
French designer Roland Mouret also showed highly-structured garments, with dresses and tops often cut with protruding triangular shapes.
Colors were dramatic, although not vulgar, with solid red dresses and outfits in solid white. Origami-like tailoring in black and white seemed to turn tops and dresses inside out around the body.
The effect was slightly reminiscent of the art of Patrick Nagel, who often depicted highly glamorous and fashionable women subtly juxtaposed against angular blocks of color: high glamor and structure.